Tag Archives: Service Panel Upgrades

AFCI Breakers Prevent Fires, Increase Home Safety

Are arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) worth the cost? Short answer: Absolutely.

When Wade Anderson awoke one day to find no electricity in his Sherwood, Oregon, bedroom, he traced it to a burned-out open wire — a fire hazard. He called an electrician to add a new circuit and install arc fault circuit interrupters, also known as AFCI, to his breakers.

“Had I installed AFCIs in that bedroom earlier, the bad circuit would have been revealed sooner, avoiding a close call on a fire,” the Angie’s List member says. “Arc faults are more likely as wiring ages, so AFCIs are a wise upgrade for older homes.”

Experts say AFCI breakers can prevent fire hazards by cutting off power in the breaker box as soon as they detect the “electric signature” — sharp spikes and drops in voltage — that indicate a fault. Arc faults occur when electricity discharges at unintended points, such as corroded or loose wires, creating dangerous sparks or excessive heat. The National Fire Protection Association says arcs are the most common cause of residential electrical fires.

Michael Johnston, executive director of standards and safety for the National Electrical Contractors Association, strongly recommends them for all homes, and installed several in his own home when he moved in, even though it was less than a decade old.

“It’s like having a policeman there constantly monitoring your system and stopping the arc as soon as it happens,” he says. “An AFCI breaker is designed to react within one-tenth of a second of an arcing event and open the circuit.”

Seth Silbaugh, owner of an electrical contracting company calls this an improvement over previous generations of breaker technology. “A loose connection can cause a fire, but it won’t trip a circuit breaker,” he says. “An AFCI can pick that up and cut it off.”

Arc fault breaker code changes

AFCI technology developed in the 1990s and slowly began to take hold in the National Electrical Code. New versions call for AFCI breakers in nearly all of the habitable areas of the house. Homes built prior to the NEC’s adoption of AFCI in the last decade aren’t required to have it, but Silbaugh says the code calls for AFCI breakers when adding new circuits or upgrades to the system.

A Panel Chad from Safe and Sound Electric Installed

Arc fault protection cost

Johnston says the cost of adding this work to older homes can vary widely, depending on the age of the electrical panel.

“The breaker itself costs about $40 and takes an hour or two to install four or five of them, unless there are troubleshooting problems,” he says. “So you might be looking at a few hundred dollars. But some older panels won’t accept the new AFCI devices, so you’d need to upgrade the panel.”

Silbaugh says he sometimes comes across this problem, and that panel upgrades can cost anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. Johnston says in cases where panel upgrades aren’t feasible, device-based AFCI can be installed directly in outlets at a lower cost.

Silbaugh points out that AFCI can work in conjunction with ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) technology, and says this remains particularly important in bathrooms.

“GFCI protects the end user from electric shock,” he says. “But a circuit can be protected by both AFCI and GFCI at the same time.”

One lingering criticism claims that AFCI trips too easily, which Anderson echoes.

“They’re pretty sensitive,” he says. “A circular saw can trip them, which I’ve experienced.”

Silbaugh says AFCI circuits do tend to be more sensitive, especially in older houses such as Anderson’s 1968 home, but technology improvements have lowered that problem. “The newer ones are a lot better than the ones from even five or six years ago,” he says. “They’ll still trip on occasion if something like a vacuum or a treadmill creates an electric signature the AFCI interprets as a problem, but it’s not a reason not to put them in. There are certain inconveniences, but the safety benefits outweigh them.”

Source: AFCI Breakers Prevent Fires, Increase Home Safety | Angie’s List

Bottom line is if you’re looking for the #1 way to protect your families’ lives and your investment when it comes to electrical, Arc Fault breakers are what you’ll be looking to.  Contact Safe and Sound Electric for a complimentary estimate!

7 Electrical Safety Tips Homeowners Should Know

Learn how to identify the electrical safety hazards you can’t see before problems arise.

I often wonder what they would have thought of microwaves, entertainment centers, dishwashers and the armies of other gadgets we take for granted on a daily basis. But your home’s electrical system may have a few things going on that might shock you too. Enlighten yourself with these tips that can help you be a more aware homeowner and may alert you to dangerous electrical problems that need to be fixed by Safe and Sound Electric.

1. Throw your home a birthday party

For electrical safety reasons, it’s good to know how old your home is and to celebrate its birthday with an electrical safety inspection. Older homes weren’t built to handle the electrical load our contemporary lives carry. Knowing whether your home’s electrical system has been updated to safely handle all the electrical current your family uses is imperative.

2. Know your electric panel

Even as recently as the 1990s, faulty electrical panels were being installed in many new homes. Certain brands, including Federal Pacific, ITE Pushmatic, Zinsco and GTE/Sylvania, are no longer manufactured and pose electrical hazards that could lead to a fire. Your electric panel should never feel hot to the touch.

A hot electric panel points to a big problem. (Photo by Katelin Kinney)

3. Understand the breakers

These guys are your friends, even though you may find their interference irritating when they trip. They’re trying to tell you something, and it’s usually that you have too many appliances or gadgets connected to the same circuit. Reconfigure your appliances, and if the breakers keep tripping, get help from an electrician.

4. Make friends with your fire extinguisher

The only safe way to extinguish an electrical fire is with a fire-retardant chemical fire extinguisher. Never use water; it conducts electricity. Keep fire extinguishers on each level of your home, and know how to use them and when to replace them.

Having a fire extinguisher isn’t enough. Learn how to use it. (Photo by Katelin Kinney)

5. Feel your outlets

Place your hand on the outlets in your home. Warm or hot outlets point to trouble.

A warm outlet could mean one of several dangerous situations is brewing: an electrical load on this circuit is too high, wiring is melting, wiring isn’t up to code or is loose. Also, note if the outlets don’t hold plugs, or if the outlet itself seems loose on the wall.

Replace any two-pronged outlets with newer, grounded three-pronged outlets. Any outlet near water should be switched to code-correct GFCI outlets. Call an electrician to handle these requests.

6. Keep an eye on the lights

Flickering lights could mean you need to repair or replace your electrical panel, or you have too many appliances plugged into one circuit. Don’t ignore this issue.

7. Ground older appliances

Older appliances could have grounding issues that might put you at risk for a shock. Ensure all of your appliances have three-pronged plugs that can properly connect to a grounded outlet. Any kitchen appliances with just two-pronged plugs should be replaced. If the outlets aren’t grounded, they should be replaced, and a new circuit should be installed.

Electrical work is inherently dangerous. Professional electricians receive years of training and on-the-job experience before the state grants them a license. Use discretion when attempting your own electrical work. To make sure all the electrical systems in your home are safe, up to code and working as they should, hire a trusted electrician to handle the job.

Warm outlets? Flickering lights? These signal electricity problems that you should have a licensed electrician check out. Be an aware homeowner with these tips.

Source: 7 Electrical Safety Tips Homeowners Should Know | Angies List

4 Outdated and Unsafe Electrical Panels That Could be Hiding in Your Home

If you own an older home (built before 1990), you might have one of these outdated main electric panels/boxes hiding in your home.

And these outdated panels don’t just make you uncool like a pair of outdated bell-bottoms might. They can also be extremely unsafe.

You see, electrical panels contain safety devices (either fuses or circuit breakers) that trip and shut off the power when too much electricity flows through them. This helps prevent fires caused by overheating wires.

Yet many Sarasota-area homes have old, outdated panels that might not work as intended, leaving them vulnerable to a house fire. Here are 4 types of unsafe panels you should consider replacing if you have them…

FPE Panel Replaced by Safe and Sound Electric Image source.

Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) Panels

FPE Stablok Panel Replaced by Safe and Sound Electric Image source.

For a long time (1950s-1980s) Federal Pacific Electric was one of the most popular manufacturers of electrical panels in the United States. And they were installed in millions of homes.

But these panels are extremely unsafe.

Why they’re unsafe: FPE electric panels’ circuit breakers fail to trip when they should (when there’s a short-circuit or circuit overload). This problem has led to thousands of fires across the United States.

There are also many reports that FPE circuits in the off position still send power to the circuit. This can cause electrocution when working on a circuit you believe to be off.

How to tell if you have one: FPE panels are most common in homes built between 1950 and 1980. Federal Pacific Electric will likely be written on the cover of your breaker box. Inside, look for the name Stab-Loc (the brand name of the circuit breakers).

Sylvania Zinsco Panel replaced by Safe and Sound Electric Image source.

Zinsco Panels

Zinsco or GTE-Sylvania panels were popular electrical panels installed in homes throughout the 1970s. Zinsco is now defunct, but many homes still have these panels.

Why they’re unsafe: The circuit breakers inside many Zinsco panels melt to the main ‘bus bar’. This means the breaker can’t ever trip, even when there’s a short or overloaded circuit. So if there ever is a short or other problems, the surge of power melts wires and starts fires in your home.

How to tell if you have one: The name Zinsco anywhere on the panel is a sure sign it should be replaced. Also, many GTE-Sylvania or Sylvania panels are simply re-branded Zinsco panels or contain the problem Zinsco design. These should also be replaced.

However, not all Sylvania and GTE-Slyvania branded panels are dangerous. So if you have one, an electrician will need to inspect it to see if it has the problematic design.

Split-bus electrical panels

Split Bus panel replaced by Safe and Sound Electric Image source.
Split Bus panel replaced by Safe and Sound Electric Notice there is no single disconnect. Instead, all the circuit breakers in the rectangle are labeled as main disconnects. Image source.

A typical modern circuit breaker has a single metal bus. Electricity comes into the panel, passes through a main breaker and to the bus. The bus then connects to each individual circuit breaker, providing power to your entire home.

You can then shut off power to the bus (and your entire home) simply by turning off the main breaker.

Split-bus electrical panels are different. They have 2 buses and no single main disconnect. They have up to 6 breakers labeled “main”. One of these main breakers controls power to half (the bottom) of the breakers in the panel. The other main breakers connect directly to the first bus.

Above is a photo of a split bus panel with front cover removed. You can see how the top 3 breakers are connected directly to the incoming power (large black wires at the top). Then the 3rd breaker supplies power to the lower breakers (see the blue wires connecting them).

Why they’re unsafe: By themselves, split-bus panels aren’t unsafe. However, these types of panels haven’t been used for over 40 years. That puts them past their expected lifespan, meaning the circuit breakers may not trip as they are designed to.

Plus, electrical code no longer allows for multiple disconnects.

How to tell if you have one: Open the front cover of your electrical box. Are your breakers divided into 2 groups? Is there no single disconnect breaker? These are good indications that you have a split-bus panel.

Fuse box

Fusebox replacement by Safe and Sound Electric Image source.

Fuse boxes are old electrical panels that use fuses instead of circuit breakers to protect your wires from becoming overloaded. When a circuit draws too much electricity, the fuse burns out and must be replaced.

Why they’re unsafe: Fuses aren’t inherently unsafe. They work just like circuit breakers (except they can’t be reset and must be replaced.) However, most fuse boxes in homes today are unsafe because they’ve been modified to try to serve today’s energy demands.

Homeowners (and sometimes contractors) create problems in many fuse boxes that make them unsafe. Here are a few:

  • Placing too many things on a single circuit. Because fuse boxes typically have fewer circuits, homeowners often end up plugging in too many electrical appliances to a single outlet. That leads to fuses that blow a lot, which can lead homeowners to…
  • Replacing a fuse with a bigger fuse. If you replace a 15-amp fuse with a 20-amp fuse (or larger), your fuse may stop blowing. However, you’ll also create a massive fire hazard. The wires in that circuit are only rated for 15-amps, not 20!
  • Replacing the fuse with something metal. Some homeowners go a step further and insert a metal object (like a penny) where the blown fuse once was. Again, this eliminates blown fuses, but also completely removes the safety that fuses provide. Your wires could pull large amounts of electricity, overheat and start a fire.

How to tell if you have one: Chances are if you have a fuse box, you already know it. But if you’re not sure, find your main electrical panel and open it up. Instead of a bunch of switches (circuit breakers) you should see fuses.

What to do if you have one of these panels

If you have one of these unsafe and outdated electrical panels, we highly recommend replacing them. At the very least, you should have an electrician inspect the panel to see if there are any signs of problems.

If you live in the Kitsap County, East Jefferson or North Pierce County, contact Safe and Sound Electric for help.

 

4 Outdated and Unsafe Electrical Panels That Could be Hiding in Your Home

Source: 4 Outdated and Unsafe Electrical Panels That Could be Hiding in Your Home Energy Today provides award-winning electrical service to Sarasota, Florida and the surrounding areas like Bradenton, Tampa and Port Charlotte. 

Six Tips for Diagnosing Dimming or Flickering Lights at Buildings

In diagnosing the cause of flickering or dimming lights at a building the following diagnostic questions can help narrow down the cause of the trouble.

  1. Is the dimming light problem happening in just your building or do neighbors see the same problem at exactly the same time? If your neighbors are seeing flickering or dimming lights too, chances are the problem is in the electrical supply network or possibly at local electrical wiring in your neighborhood or its power transformer. If your neighborhood often loses electrical power contact Safe and Sound Electric to install a backup power generator.
  2. Is the dimming problem showing up in the whole building or just parts of it? If all lights in the house dim then the problem is probably in the electrical panel or at the service entry cabling to your building. The electrician will look for a problem in the electrical panel, at the main breaker, at the service entry wiring connections or at the SEC wiring itself, including the two hot wires and the service neutral wire. But see the exception in step 4 below.
  3. Is the dimming or flickering light problem associated with circuits in just half of the electrical panel? Depending on electrical panel layout, damage to one panel bus can cause failures or odd behavior on electrical circuits connected to that panel bus.
  4. Is the dimming light problem associated with the operation of a single, specific appliance or motor? This is an exception to the case described in step 2 in that all lights may dim when there is a developing failure in a single major appliance such as an air conditioner compressor motor. Such motors can draw very high amps (current) for just a moment when the motor is starting. If the current surge is very brief, no circuit breaker may trip but the load may be enough to dim all the incandescent lights that are on or all fixtures in just part of the building, depending on how the appliance circuit is wired in the electrical panel. (Fluorescent lights probably won’t dim). If the problem never occurs when the circuit to that appliance has been turned off you’ve probably found the trouble. If the problem is traced to a specific appliance but is intermittent, other variations in conditions such as temperature, humidity, vibration, or moving around of a loose wire may explain that inconsistency.
  5. Is the dimming or flickering light trouble showing up on just a single circuit? In this case we suspect a faulty circuit breaker or bad connection in the circuit. Some circuit breaker brands are particularly prone to failure such as FPE Stab-Lok and Zinsco-Sylvania. In this case the problem may ultimately show up on more circuits in the same building, depending on building age and circuit usage levels and other conditions.
  6. Is the dimming or flickering light showing up just at some fixtures or appliances? A likely cause of this problem is a failing appliance or motor that is drawing abnormally high current as we cited in step 3. But sometimes the problem may occur only at lights or appliances plugged-in electrically “downstream” from a specific electrical circuit, or at lights operated by a specific switch. In this case we suspect the trouble is not the appliance itself but in connectors within the receptacle or switch or immediately “upstream” (electrically) from it. Some receptacle and switch types such as older push-in back-wired devices are more likely to have loose or failing electrical connectors with age and usage.

Try plugging in the light fixture or appliance at a different place on a different electrical circuit in the home. If the bad behavior continues then the trouble is in the light or appliance itself.

Watch out: for these safety hazards and take the immediate safety measures listed here. Start by turning off any electrical appliance or circuit that is misbehaving. Call for help from Safe and Sound Electric.

  • If your home’s branch circuits (receptacles and lighting) are wired with aluminum wire, flickering, dimming lights or even sparking may show up on just one circuit but the hazard is building-wide and significant. Turn off the misbehaving circuit and have the electrical system inspected and repaired by Safe and Sound Electric who is familiar with the hazards of and proper repairs for aluminum wiring.
  • When you can trace flickering or dimming lights to a single appliance, un-plug it and stop using it until it can be inspected and repaired. If the appliance is a unit such as central air or a heat pump, switch it off at the electrical panel.
  • When you trace flickering or dimming lights to a specific electrical circuit, turn that circuit off at the electrical panel until Safe and Sound Electric can inspect and repair the problem.
  • Call Safe and Sound Electric to help!

7 Ideas to reduce energy consumption

Perform an energy audit

An energy audit is an inspection of your home for ways to shrink your utility bills, normally by eliminating unnecessary usage. For instance, if you see a space above your outside doors, you can assume that, in the winter, cold air from outside is entering, and hot air is escaping.

A simple energy audit you could perform yourself includes looking for air leaks (open space around doors or windows), checking insulation levels, tallying light bulb wattages and checking and changing filters in your heating and cooling units. You can also hire a professional energy auditor, or if you are a renter, ask your apartment manager (or landlord) to send a maintenance team member to perform an audit. Also, consider calling your utility company, which often employs an energy auditor who will come to your home for free.

Install a digital thermostat

Heating your home is expensive, so there’s no reason to pay for your heat when you’re not at home. Purchase a digital thermostat from a home improvement store for less than $100. Then, program your thermostat to increase the temperature in your home half an hour before you arrive from work.

How much can you save? According to the Department of Energy, you can save 10-15% of your heating (and cooling bill) on an annual basis by reducing the temperature in your home by 10-15% for eight hours a day. This is approximately a temperature reduction of 70 degrees to 60 degrees while you’re gone during the day.

Save even more money by reducing the temperature while you sleep under a heavy comforter or thick blanket at night. You can program the thermostat for a nighttime temperature that will return to the daytime temperature before your alarm clock wakes you up in the morning.

Although programming a thermostat can save you money, remember not to reduce the temperature too much while you’re gone, especially if you have family or indoor pets at home during the day. If you are a renter, ask your landlord or apartment manager for permission before installing anything in your home.

Caulk and weatherstrip windows and doors

Caulking and weatherstripping is the easiest and cheapest ways to reduce energy bills. This is because you are letting outside air directly into your home through cracks around doors and windows, causing your heating or cooling unit to work harder to keep the room at a comfortable temperature.

Air sealing a home can reduce heating and cooling costs by 20% according to statistics from the Alliance to Save Energy.

Improve insulation in attics and exterior walls.

According to the Alliance to Save Energy, adding extra insulation in your attic and exterior walls can reduce your heating and cooling costs by up to 30%. Insulation can be bought relatively cheaply. Virtually any home’s attic can be insulated for a few hundred dollars, or less if you do it yourself. Installing insulation in exterior walls is more complicated and should be done by a professional.

Ask your utility company about other pricing plans

If you are in an area of the country that allows you to choose a utility provider, that provider might offer various pricing plans. One plan might offer lower pricing if you agree to be a customer for six months to one year. This is because the company is afraid of losing your patronage to another service provider. Be careful when you sign this agreement because if you decide to cancel within the time frame, you might have to pay a cancellation fee.

Switch light bulbs

Switching from incandescent to CFL (compact fluorescent) or LED (light emitting diode) bulbs can save substantially on lighting costs. If you’re still using old bulbs you tucked away in your utility closet, now’s the time to make the switch. LED bulbs use even less energy than CFL bulbs. Experiment to find the kind with the light that looks best in each place you use bulbs.

 

More options from Safe and Sound Electric

Call us today!  We can help by installing a device that monitors your entire home’s energy use minute by minute.  We can also install a service rated ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and whole home UPS (Uninterruptible power supply) or any other home energy storage like Tesla’s Power Wall and integrate solar with an inverter.