All posts by Chadwick Ferguson

Electrical Safety, Electrician Tools

Why Torque Matters

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At Safe and Sound Electric we practice proper torque techniques.  A lot of jobs we do for customers involve fixing outlets on the verge of causing a fire, serious property damage, and death. If your electrical system is failing with flickering lights, parts of the circuit that “Haven’t worked for years,” Or “Been that way for 50 years,” Or “Was that way when we moved in and its never made sense,” Call an Electrician Don’t make it on the list of Dumb Ways to Die

Chadwick Ferguson Owner, Safe and Sound Electric

There are 3 conductors per wire in your home.  There are hundreds of lengths of wire.  Each length and every conductor gets connected with some piece of electrical equipment.  All it takes is 1 connection in hundreds in your home to fail and catch fire.  Here is an article from IAEI Magazine Published 2015 titled “Inspecting Electrical Connections for Proper Torque” by Rhonda Parkhurst

Inspecting Electrical Connections for Proper Torque

The year: 2007. The place: Tucson, Arizona. It was my first IAEI Section meeting. The education program was “Causes of Electrical Fires.” I did not know which causes would be mentioned in the class, but I knew that if loose connections were not included, I would have to bring up this topic. As expected, by the end of the training session, torquing had not been discussed. Nervously, I walked to the microphone ready to face ridicule, but knowing how important it was not to miss this opportunity. When I explained that improper torquing was yet another cause of electrical fires and that my employer, Palo Alto, California, had been verifying torque for the past few years, as expected, there was laughter by several attendees. Maybe this response was prompted by a lack of knowledge or comprehension of the importance of proper torquing. The response received on that day is, and no doubt will continue to be, repeated during electrical inspections. Do not let this response deter you from providing information. You don’t have to be the instructor of a class or seminar to be an educator.

After the presentation on the “Causes of Electrical Fires” was over, one of the equipment manufacturers came up to me, wanting to discuss torquing. He was glad that I had brought up the subject, and he explained that connections sometimes vibrate loose during transport and that this situation is not verified in the field. He also noted that customer complaints related to loose connections are not uncommon. As you can see, torquing is an issue, but it may not be talked about as often as necessary.

My goal for this article is to answer some commonly asked questions, to address misconceptions, and to show that torquing the connections is perfectly natural. The practice may not seem natural at first, but this crucial part of an electrical installation is not to be ignored.

LOOSE CONNECTION WITH GREEN OXIDE ON THE CONDUCTOR AND MELTED INSULATION

Loose connections cause fires

Loose connections may operate satisfactorily for a time, but eventually they will experience thermal runaway that will result in extremely high temperatures causing equipment damage and, in some cases, structural fires. I have seen several instances of failures and fires that were confirmed to be caused by loose connections.

For many electricians, the idea of torquing terminations is a new concept, but the benefits are clear: safer installations. Torquing is not new; in fact, automobile mechanics have been using torque tools for almost as long as they have been making cars. A quick search of Wikipedia reveals the following history: “A torque wrench is a tool used to apply a specific torque precisely to a fastener such as a nut or bolt. It is usually in the form of a socket wrench with special internal mechanisms. It was invented by Conrad Bahr in 1918 while working for the New York City Water Department. It was designed to prevent overtightening bolts on water main and steam pipe repairs underground.”

There are likely electricians who have never seen a torque screwdriver or even know that these tools exist; some will not know where to purchase the tools. As electrical industry professionals, we need to be ready to provide information if the circumstance calls for it.

Why torque?

Besides installing equipment according to the listing and labeling requirements as required by NEC 110.3(B), there are several reasons connections should be torqued. In a time when being “Green” is all the rage, what better way to “be green.” Loss of energy can be prevented when connections are tight. After all, property owners may be paying premium prices and would want the benefit of each electron instead of losing energy that is dissipated at loose connections.

A TORQUE SCREWDERIVER WITH AN IN-OZ SCALE

Fire prevention is another great reason to torque connections. When the conductors are not making good contact, this can create arcing, sparking and overheating, with the result being a fire.

When torquing, not only are we looking for loose connections but there may be some connections that are over tightened and now stripped. A stripped connection is not always evident by visual inspection only. You may notice a skewed setscrew or damaged setscrew on a mechanical lug, which could indicate a stripped connection. When breakers are stripped, there may be no obvious visual sign.

Both loose and overly tightened connections create a risk of failure. Neither equipment manufacturers nor industry standards recommend periodic retightening of connections. Even when a “hot” connection is detected during an infrared inspection, simply tightening the connection probably will not correct the deficiency.1 The connection must be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled with the proper tool and torque. Additionally, cutting off the previously connected end of the wire and making the connection with an unused section of wire is the safest solution.

What tools are needed?

When the inspector arrives at a job site for a panel inspection, one of the first things that should be asked of the electrician is “Where are your torque tools?” Common responses to this question are, “I have been doing this for thirty years” or “No one has ever asked me to do this.” These responses usually come from electricians who do not use or do not own a torque wrench or torque screwdriver. Often when I ask to see the torque wrench and torque screwdriver that was used, an Allen wrench set is what materializes. The Allen wrench seems to be the tool of choice, but this is not the right tool to complete the job. Can you really torque by feel? Can you calibrate your arm? My guess is that if someone has used a torque wrench for years, they may come pretty close, but is “close” good enough? Research2 has shown that only about 25% of connections performed without a torque wrench are within +/- 20% of the manufacturer’s recommended torque value. That means 75% of the connections are wrong! Do you feel good about doing a good job 25% of the time?

INSTRUCTION LABELS FOR SHEAR BOLTS

Having the right tools for the job is a good place to start; otherwise, you may be setting yourself up for failure. To start with, every electrician must have a torque wrench. An inch-pound torque wrench will be required, and depending on the job, a foot-pound torque wrench may be required. You will also need a torque screwdriver, square drive and slotted bits, Hex socket set (both standard and deep socket), and a pair of tongue-and-groove pliers (commonly known as “channellocks”). For a residential 200-amp service panel, a foot-pound torque wrench may not be required. The highest torque value for a 200-amp service panel usually is around 250 inch-pounds. These connections are for the service-entrance conductor (SEC) terminations with an Allen set screw termination. A foot-pound torque wrench will have the higher ranges needed to achieve values higher than 250 inch-pounds and will be required for service equipment over 200 amps.

The torque screwdriver is used for the circuit breaker and ground/neutral bus terminations. Smaller service equipment, such as 100 amps with smaller service-entrance conductors, will likely terminate at a smaller mechanical lug with a slotted setscrew. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind is that the torque value for a slotted setscrew is not over 50 inch-pounds.

CIRCUIT BREAKER LABEL WITH TORQUE VALUES

The hex socket set will be used for the Allen setscrew found at service-entrance mechanical lugs, and at larger breakers typically found in commercial switchgear and panelboards. This is where your deep socket hex set will come into play. The setscrew on these larger breakers is set back within the breaker some three inches and the standard hex socket will not fit even with an extension. The openings to access these recessed terminations are very minimal.

Channellocks or similar pliers must be used to back up or hold mechanical lugs in place while the proper torque is being applied. The means by which the mechanical lug has been attached to the equipment may not have been tested to withstand the same torque as the lug and, therefore, must be securely held in order to avoid damaging the equipment.

Damaged equipment imposes additional costs and time delays that could have been prevented. It is fairly common to see factory-installed mechanical lugs attached to the ground/neutral bar. These lugs are located either at the top or the bottom of the bar. If securing the lug while torquing is not taken into consideration, it is likely that the bus will split. Each bar has multiple holes for the equipment ground and/or neutral conductors to terminate. If you notice that the bar is starting to bend while torquing, a better hold of the mechanical lug is required, or you will have damaged equipment to replace.

Have you ever heard the phrase “torque seal” used and wondered what it is? Torque seal is used by manufacturers at the factory and by electricians for field connections. Torque seal is a stripe of lacquer applied to a bolt/nut/set screw after torque has been applied. It is usually packaged in poly squeeze tubes and is available in an array of colors. Torque seal is a good method to confirm which connections have already been torqued. Note: torque seal is not a substitute for using the right tool! It should only be applied after tightening the connection to the proper value.

What is a torque wrench and torque screwdriver?

A torque screwdriver is not a regular screwdriver, but is very similar. The torque screwdriver can be used to tighten and loosen screw connections, but its primary function is to tighten torque connections to a specific value. A torque screwdriver will have adjustable torque settings in increments of 1, 5 or 10 inch-pounds with a range between 5 and 150 inch-pounds. A torque screwdriver is used in a straightforward motion by twisting the handle. A torque-limiting clutch is built in, so that the screwdriver will disengage when the preset torque has been reached.

TORQUE SCREWDRIVER

Unlike the torque screwdriver, the torque wrench uses a lever action. The levered action of a torque wrench provides an easier way to apply a higher torque value. Users should be aware that there are usually two torque values given on each side of the torque wrench handle. On one side of the handle, the values are given in newton-meters and on the other side of the handle the values are given in inch-pounds or foot-pounds. (Both can be hard to read because they are etched into shiny metal. See photo 6.) Be sure you are looking at the right values before you start, or you may be applying a higher torque than what is called out, thereby causing damage to the equipment. The lines next to the torque value are not always straight across and can be misread. Applying excessive torque can also strip out the lug. Always double check the values specified by the manufacturer of the equipment and the adjusted values on the torquing device.

What torque value do I use?

Always use the torque value provided by the manufacturer, when available. Newer equipment will always have the torque values provided, but you may have to hunt for them at times. Torque values for terminals within the enclosure can be found on labels on the inside of the cover, the dead front or elsewhere in the enclosure. These terminals include the SEC (service-entrance conductor) lugs, ground/neutral bar, busing connections, lug attachment and bolt-in breakers.

Torque values for circuit breakers are not found on the equipment label. These values will be on the breaker, not on the enclosure. See photo 4. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen the electrician looking for this information (unsuccessfully) on the inside of the enclosure in which the breaker is being installed. This information can be found in different locations depending on the manufacturer. For example, the Square D breakers will have the torque values embossed on the side of the breaker whereas Murray breakers will have the information printed on the face of the breaker.

One of the downsides to having the information on the side of the breaker is that you may have to remove the breaker to read the values. Or maybe the electrician has a spare breaker on the truck that will allow you to verify the values without removing the installed breaker. You may also need to bring a magnifying glass or someone with young eyes when looking for the torque values on breakers. This information can be very difficult to read due to the very small font size used.

CLOSE UP OF TORQUE WRENCH SCALE

Where there is no torque value available — which is often the case for older equipment and breakers — default torque values can be found in the 2008 National Electrical Code Handbook (after section 110.14). In the 2011 NEC and newer codes,3, 4 they can be found in Annex I. These values should never be substituted for the manufacturer’s instructions. I cannot stress enough the value of always following the manufacturer’s instructions since the equipment may be listed using a different torque value than the default.

How can the inspector implement verification of proper torque?

If an inspector questions what authority he or she has to implement verification of proper torque, the Code is there to back you up. Section 110.3(B) in the National Electrical Code requires that equipment be installed according to its listing and labeling. This requirement includes verifying the given torque setting. Not only do we have the authority, but it is also our obligation as inspectors to ensure life safety. An example of a torque inspection policy from Santa Ana, California is included in Exhibit 1.

Before you start implementing this in your jurisdiction, make sure that you have the support of the Building Official. When the Building Official authorizes you to move forward, you become the educator for the electricians and general contractors. While some electricians are very knowledgeable and are accustomed to using torque tools, you can’t assume that every electrician owns the proper tools or knows how to use them. You may need to tell them what tools they will need and where they can purchase them. They may need direction in locating the torque values, and you may need to help them to read the torque values on their torque tools.

Which connections should be torqued?

All field connections must be tightened using appropriate torque tools. The connections that should be torqued in the field normally consist of bolts, connectors and terminals including the following items:

  • Breakers
  • Neutral/ground bars
  • Mechanical, insulated, piercing lug
  • Bolts on compression-type connectors
  • Mechanical lug & Lay-in lugs
  • MSB bussing, bolt-in breakers

Although factory connections in equipment should be tightened to the proper value when they arrive at the job site, there may be indications of loosened connections apparent to the inspector. If loose connections are detected, they may need to be retightened to an appropriate torque value.

Before you torque…

All tools should be calibrated to allow for an accurate torque value. New torque devices come fully calibrated and will stay calibrated for a year. Each year thereafter, recognized companies must calibrate the equipment and apply a sticker showing the date the calibration was done.

The manufacturer may also require an oxide inhibitor/antioxidant for field-installed wiring. Always check the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

SANTA ANA TORQUE INSPECTION POLICY

Proper torquing methods

Circuit breakers installed within 200-amp service equipment and panelboards may have a variety of setscrews. Not all will require a square tip #2 and not all will have a slotted setscrew. You may use a straight slotted bit for both, but if you have the option to use a square tip bit, you might want to consider using it. The square tip bit will seat better in the setscrew and will be less likely to slip off or jump out of the indentations of the setscrew. When torquing a standard slotted setscrew, you must be sure to apply enough pressure into the termination while applying the torque required to reach the accurate value. This process is not always an easy task, and you will find you may have difficulty keeping the bit to stay in the slot of the slotted setscrew. If the bit is not exactly in the middle of the setscrew, you will not always be able to attain the desired torque value before stripping your connection.

When preparing to torque a mechanical lug with a hex setscrew, you must remember that if your bit is not completely seated into the connection you will round out the connection, potentially making it impossible to reach the manufacturer’s specified torque value. You will either need to require that the electrician replace the entire mechanical lug or find a replacement setscrew to complete the task. If a hex setscrew connection is part of a breaker, the entire breaker may need to be replaced if replacement parts cannot be found. Damaging a breaker with this type of connection is usually a costly mistake, and may cause a time delay that could have been easily prevented if only the hex bit had been completely seated into the setscrew. The key here is to not rush the electrician when he or she is preparing to torque connections.

Oftentimes an extension is needed. When you have a lug that is set back deep into the enclosure, you will need to extend the bit by using an extension. If you do not use an extension, you will find that you will not have full range for your torque wrench or it will cause your bit to not fully seat into the connection again, causing the setscrew to round out damaging the equipment. Always use an extension when needed.

The importance of how to hold a torque wrench may never have occurred to you. You should never use only one hand since that could throw off the center of force, causing a misread or damaging the equipment. One hand should be placed on the handle and the head of the device should be cupped in your other hand providing stability. Pay close attention to the proper technique for using the tools.

Are all torque wrenches the same?

When the electrician is required to provide the torque tools for the inspection, chances are this could be the first time he or she is using the tools. You, the inspector, must pay close attention to the type of torque wrench being used.5 You must know if the device you are using is a foot-pound torque wrench or an inch-pound torque wrench and adjust the values accordingly. If a foot-pound wrench is being used where an inch-pound value is given, no problem. All you need is the ability to do a little simple math to convert inch-pounds to foot-pounds. Divide the number given in inch-pounds by 12, since there are 12 inches in a foot. Now you have the value in foot-pounds. For example, the torque value given for the main lugs and neutral lug on a 200-amp panelboard is 250 inch-pounds. [ 250/12=20.8 ft-lbs.] Remember that there are usually two different values given on the side of the torque wrench, Newton-meters and foot- or inch-pounds; be sure you are reading the correct side or your values will be wrong.

Torque screwdrivers of different capabilities can look identical but be very different. Once while doing an inspection while the electrician was using a torque screwdriver, I knew something was not quite right by the sound the torque screwdriver made when it reached the set torque. The sound was very faint compared to others I had encountered. After investigating, I discovered the torque screwdriver being used was measured in inch-ounces. There are identical looking torque screwdrivers that have increments given in inch-ounces and inch-pounds. See photo 2. The in-ounces torque screwdrivers will not work for values given in the electrical equipment that you are inspecting — an in-pounds torque screwdriver must be used.

Each brand of torque wrench will make a different sound when reaching the specified torque value. A big difference between the torque screwdriver and the torque wrench when reaching the specified torque value is that a screwdriver will disengage, whereas a torque wrench will continue to tighten if you do not feel or hear the click it makes. If you are not familiar with the sound the torque wrench makes, I suggest lowering the torque value by 25% and torque the termination to verify what the click sounds like; then turn it back up to the specified torque and tighten the rest of the way. Some are so quiet that you practically need to put your ear next to the wrench to hear it click. Sometimes the setscrew will make a sound when turning, making you think that it is the torque wrench clicking as it reaches the correct torque value. It is important that you know the difference.

Best Practices

  • When verifying connections are not under-tightened, a value that is 10% less is a good rule of thumb to be sure that you do not overtighten the connections. Ten percent below the torque specifications, especially on old equipment, is a good place to start.
  • The specified torque value should never be exceeded. The theory of “more torque is better” is just not true. Applying a higher torque value than is specified may cause damage to the connection or equipment.
  • Torquing should never be performed on energized equipment; if it must be done, ensure that proper PPE is utilized.
  • Prior to energizing the service, the electrician should demonstrate that he or she has properly torqued terminations.
  • Loose electrical connections are one of the leading causes for electrical failures.
  • Tools are used to precisely apply a specific torque to a fastener.

Necessary tools for making electrical connections:

  • Screw driver (for opening the de-energized equipment)
  • Wire brush
  • Oxide inhibitor
  • Default torque values
  • Channellocks (to secure lugs)
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound and foot-pound)
  • Torque screwdriver
  • Bits-standard/slot and hex; including extra deep bits
  • Socket set (for bolt connections)

Summary

Sure, torquing takes additional time to verify, but it is worth the extra time to do a complete inspection. If we do not verify torqued connections properly, have we done all we can do to verify a safe installation? According to NEC 90.1, “The purpose of this Code is the practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity.” Properly torqued connections increase the safety and reliability of electrical installations.

According to BURNDY, an electrical connector manufacturer,
“The use of mechanical connections for electrical service to residential and commercial customers is common practice. However, the installation of mechanical wire connectors requires the application of the manufacturer’s recommended torque. The use of a calibrated torque wrench, torque screwdriver, or other device for measuring applied torque is the only way to ensure that the manufacturer’s torque is achieved. Each year there are failures in electrical connections due to misapplied torque as per the connector manufacturer’s recommendation. This is not due to poor workmanship; it is rather a lack of understanding of the physical connection between the conductor and the connector. Without using the proper tools, it has been shown that even experienced electricians cannot consistently tighten the connector to the recommended torque value. For electrical connections the old adage ‘hand tight plus a quarter turn’ is not sufficient to produce a proper mechanical connection. The mechanical interface between the connector and the conductor is an integral part of a safe and reliable electrical connection. The mechanical connection applies a force on the conductor which creates a greater area of contact. The manufacturer of mechanical connectors designs and tests the connectors to establish the correct amount of pressure (torque) to apply to meet the requirements of mechanical reliability and current flow.”

References:

1 http://www.mt-online.com/february1998/the-loose-electrical-connection-myth

2 https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2010/07/16/the-difference-between-success-and-failure-how-a-torque-wrench-improves-system-reliability/

3 https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2011/07/16/are-you-the-weakest-link/

4 http://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/dont-be-uptight

5 http://ecmweb.com/content/torque-wrenches-critical-tools-critical-connections

Rhonda Parkhurst wishes to thank Christel Hunter for her excellent editorial input.

The Bottom Line

At Safe and Sound Electric we practice proper torque techniques.  A lot of jobs we do for customers involve fixing outlets on the verge of causing a fire, serious property damage, and death.  If your electrical system is failing with flickering lights, parts of the circuit that “Haven’t worked for years,” Or “Been that way for 50 years,” Or “Was that way when we moved in and its never made sense,”

Call an Electrician

Don’t make it on the list of Dumb Ways to Die

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Square D Homeline Circuit Breakers: Cost and Availability King

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SELF TAUGHT ?

Learning without safety with knowledge, not sound,

learning by trial, by others not taught,

often had brought a disturbing shock.

If the body had firm path, from heart to ground,

surprise of shock would be more than a squawk.

(c) 3-02-2022 – Roger W Hancock

THE GREAT SEATTLE BANANA SHORTAGE – EVERY CRISIS, ANY YEAR

Times are hard.  Material availability difficulties have been the hallmark driving delays within the construction industry.  Thats why Safe and Sound Electric can help consumers make informed decisions on the products they patronize in their home.

I’ve been given so many reasons for material shortages delays; the Evergiven being stuck, hurricanes in the Dominican Republic, the Texas storm, COVID-19, and countless others.  Bottom line is there are breakers that are required to be installed by code and they cannot be purchased from every manufacturer.  The shortage could be likened to having to go to Safeway for eggs, but they are out of milk so you must go to Costco for the milk.  A dedicated electrician knows how to find solutions, commonly same day to solve material shortage woes.

As an informed consumer ourselves, we would like to know which store has a banana for sale and is fair value.  I don’t want you to be stuck searching craigslist for breakers or trying to buy them from amazon retailers for inflated prices.

So here are our Availability and Cost picks for 2022:

Square D Homeline

No surprise here Homeline is the most available and most competed for breaker product you can buy.  If you want to be sure your project is done on time with minimal surprises go Homeline.

GE

ABB must be doing something different than Cooper.  We’ve had good experience procuring GE brand breakers and a number of retailers and wholesalers.

Leviton

This is a surprise.  While not available everywhere, Leviton breaker products are very widely available after they changed from a hydraulic magnetic to a thermal magnetic trip unit.

Siemens

We would put GE, Leviton, and Siemens in the same tier for cost and availability.

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5 Products Safe and Sound Electric can install in your home that save money

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Does an Energy Monitor Save You Money?

A monitor alone won’t save you money but changing your habits will. All that an energy monitor does is provide accurate electricity usage data to help you identify energy inefficiency, make informed decisions, and track your progress toward energy reduction goals.

An energy monitor is a wonderful way to discover power-hungry appliances that may be perniciously stealing energy. This may be a device that you forgot to turn off, an always-on appliance that consumes more electricity than you’d expect or something that isn’t operating properly. Such energy hogs can easily go unnoticed but will show up loud and clear with a monitor like Sense.

Sense reports its average user saves 9% on electric bills. Given the average monthly electric bill is $117, or $1,400 per year, an energy monitor saves the average homeowner $126 annually and will pay for itself in about two and a half years.

Sense Energy Monitor

The Sense Energy Monitor with Solar’s dashboard has built-in cost calculations to compare the energy produced and energy consumed in a side-by-side view, information that can minimize the amount of power to purchase. The longer it’s plugged in, the more this monitor learns, which helps the monitor determine patterns in energy use and find ways to improve.

The Sense monitor identifies individual appliances and offers information about specific devices: when they’re on, their efficiency, vampire tendencies, and more. The energy monitor sends notifications about potential issues, including solar system alerts. Sense fits right into the electrical panel and is best installed by a certified electrician. It then connects the home to a smartphone via the power of Wi-Fi.

Pros

  • Whole-house energy monitoring system
  • Tracks solar generation and output
  • Customizable notifications

Cons

  • No ethernet port option
  • Slow to identify devices

Emporia Energy Gen 2 Vue Smart Home Energy Monitor

Receive up-to-the-moment data about energy cost and usage anytime and anywhere with EMPORIA ENERGY’s Gen 2 monitor. The monitor comes with 16 sensors that clamp onto the main and individual circuits in the breaker box, which are best attached by a professional, though they come with DIY instructions.

The device monitors larger appliances attached to the individual circuits, but it integrates with smart plugs (not included) to monitor smaller appliances, set timers and schedules, and increase control through the EMPORIA ENERGY app. Solar homes can use this monitor to see how much excess energy goes back to the grid versus how much energy the home consumes. The app sends notifications based on the data it gathers, so users know which steps to take to conserve energy and control costs.

Pros

  • Eight sensors included, but eight more can be purchased
  • Solar generation net metering capabilities
  • Customizable push notifications

Cons

  • Data collected and stored on cloud, not your own device
  • Difficult to retrieve extra data if desired

Eyedro Home Energy Monitor

See the real-time costs of energy use with this easy-to-use home energy monitor from Eyedro. Its sensors clip into an electrical panel to feed information to an online dashboard using the provided Ethernet cable, but it also has a Wi-Fi option. Log in to the Eyedro website to see energy usage any time, even when away from the house.

As appliances turn on and off, the change to energy consumption displays as an update on a phone or computer screen. Through the dashboard, access monitoring reports and bill estimates and receive alerts if the power goes out at home and the system loses communication. Install this energy monitoring system into an electrical panel in as little as 15 minutes with the included instructions.

Pros

  • Ethernet connection option for reliable internet
  • Plenty of data options to review
  • No subscription fees

Cons

  • Only two monitoring clips
  • Poor installation can cause inaccurate readings

Nest Thermostat

Safe and Sound Electric can also help with that c wire issue you may be having.

The need to save money on heating and cooling cannot be overemphasized. There are diverse ways you can achieve this, and the Nest (the first smart thermostat to hit the market) can be immensely helpful. Also regarded as the “learning” thermostat, the Google Nest has many benefits and a few advantages. We will highlight the most important ones below:

Pros

  • It will save energy and money – Energy-efficiency is one of the biggest benefits smart thermostats like Nest offers. The Google Nest can significantly lower your energy consumption, and this means it can save you lots of money overall. It will also cut carbon emissions.
  • It makes controlling your AC easier – Google Nest makes controlling your AC a lot easier. It allows you to use your smartphone to control your home temperature, even when you are far from home.
  • It allows for multiple settings – Google Nest gives you more control over your AC setting because it is programmed with multiple settings. You can even control the temperature in individual rooms.
  • You can set it and forget it – As a “learning” thermostat, the Google Nest will make you become energy-conscious with minimal effort. When properly programmed, you can leave it to do all the job of temperature control.
  • It can be fun for techies – Smart thermostats are fun to use, and Google Nest is a lot of fun for techies. It will help you monitor and control your home temperature in a fun manner.

Cons

  • Compatibility issues – Google Nest may not be compatible with your existing AC unit, meaning you will need to invest in a new system. You may also need a C-wire installation to make it compatible.
  • The price tag – Google Nest is expensive. It is even much more expensive than other smart thermostats.

Leviton Main Panel

If you are considering a panel replacement job for your home, consider a Leviton main panel.  These panels feature breakers that not only monitor your energy consumption but also can be turned off from your smart phone (yes, we can also install the plexiglass see-through cover also)

Pros

  • Smart breakers are controllable remotely – Shut off a problem before it does damage, or on high energy use
  • Wonderful addition to a Leviton Main Panel – You don’t need to buy the Smart breakers at initial installation, you can purchase them later for a spiffy upgrade

Cons

  • The AFCI functionality to our knowledge is of the Current Transformer (CT) variety therefore on an older house with potential circuit collisions or multi-wire branch circuits a Leviton may not be the best choice.
  • Oil filled breaker debacle – The Leviton breakers were originally oil filled and made in Mexico.  They later switched to vacuum sealed thermo-magnetic trip breakers from China.  The Oil filled breakers truly made the technology of this panel ahead of the curve.  They are no longer available.
  • Price – The panel, and its breakers are more expensive than alternatives
  • Availability – Leviton as a brand is not carried at Lowes

Do you need an “Electrician near me“?

Don’t hesitate to call, email, or fill the form here  an “Electrician near me” (Safe and Sound Electric) will be in contact shortly.

Portions of this article have been taken from bob vila Tried, True, Trustworthy Home Advice, EcoWatch, Waychoff’s Air Conditioning Clean. Smart. Professional.

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Lutron Rotary Dimmer Sports Redesign

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From Lutron’s Website:

The original solid-state dimmer, introduced in 1961, sets lights for the perfect mood or ambiance. Rotate to select light level, and either rotate or push to on/off.

  • Features & Specifications
  • Large, easy-to-use knob
  • Available in white or ivory
  • Models available with locator light
  • Matching fan-speed controls available
  • Matching Fassada gloss wallplates available for 1-gang up to 3-gang sizes
  • Electrostatic discharge tested
  • Mechanical air-gap switch to disconnect load power
  • RFI suppression
  • Underwriters Laboratories and Canadian Standards Association listed
  • Lutron controls are rated at 120 VAC, 60 Hz unless otherwise noted

Upon further review the dimmer only does incandescent and halogen loads.  What would it take to have a knob controlled triac dimmer with digital fade that catches up to your analogous turning motions?  I guess we won’t know for now.  These rotary dimmers are just like your step-mother: the new design may seem appealing but underneath its still the same tired 1960’s resistor dimmer that everyone’s had a turn on.  This coupled with the fact it will only take incandescent and halogen loads are the reasons Safe and Sound Electric cannot recommend these.

If you’d like to install a dimmer, contact Safe and Sound Electric. Safe and sound electric is a premier installer of dimming products for lighting equipment but check out all of our other services also!

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Siemens Breakers are O.K. Too

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In Out article titled “Why GE AFCI Breakers are Ahead of the Curve” We explored the reasons why GE THQL Arc Faults were superior to all other manufacturers’ offerings. 

Today we recognize Siemen’s unique offerings which put them ahead of the curve.

The first feature that Siemens’ new breakers offer is the same advantage GE

SLASH RATED 120V/240V BREAKER

has with its electronic trip unit.  You no longer need to land the neutral on the breaker.  This is all fine and good, there is one major caveat to these breakers which set them behind the GE Arc faults in terms of compatibility: The tandem and single pole Siemens are not “Slash Rated” (read on label as 120/240v)

So you cannot use handle ties.  This gives GE one significant advantage over the Siemens.

There are 2 features that Siemens offer however which make them superior for remodel homes with Siemens or Murray (Yes Siemens breakers are rated for Murray Panels) Main Circuit Breaker Panels, and new construction.

Wire insertion tab indicator

The yellow tabs push in to the case of the breaker as wire is inserted giving

WIRE INSERTION INDICATOR FLAG

the installer feedback of how deep the conductor should be allowing for and even deeper chin of the molded case to tunnel through before you are in the lug.

We see this feature as muted as the design of the breaker has changed to have a deeper chin, perhaps you will actually need this feedback since it will be more difficult to maneuver the conductor in to place through the expanded case and onto the lug.

Tandem (Peanut) Breakers

Technically peanut breakers are 1/2 size individual breakers, specifically

TANDEM (PEANUT) BREAKERS

made by GE.  Tandem breakers are Peanut’s younger half sibling; they wish they were the original Peanut but are hindered by their inflexibility.

It is nice that Siemens offers essentially 1/2 sized breakers for say that old 20/40 space Murray you may find on occasion and need to sneak a new circuit in.  On New Construction this will also be a  boon as the price point of these considering they are 2 breakers in 1 spot essentially cut costs back to wholesale value in a retail package.

For the Safety Minded Customer

Both GE and Siemens are ahead of the curve in our opinion.  There are situations where Siemens would be more ideal than GE and vice versa.  If you’d like help in your next electrical project don’t hesitate to Countact Safe and Sound Electric, your Kitsap Electrician Call us: 360-633-5413 Text us: 360-633-5413 or email us: info@safesoundelectric.com

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Why GE AFCI Breakers are Ahead of the Curve

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At Safe and Sound Electric we do a lot of remodels.  There are a few conditions in older homes that cause AFCI or arc fault breakers to trip.  One of the most common causer of this is circuit collisions not on the phase but on the neutral.  We see countless number of homes that would be otherwise incompatible with AFCI or arc fault technology because the previous electrician did not segregate neutrals from different circuits.

This is no longer a problem using GE AFCI or arc fault circuit breakers.  The nomenclature THQL120AF2 denotes the generational difference of circuit breakers with this technology.  If the circuit breaker ends in “AF2” it does not matter if the downstream neutral is shared; in fact the downstream neutral doesn’t even need to be landed on the breaker itself, contrary to all breakers made by any competitor.  “AF1” and GE’s competitor’s current breakers used a similar same electronic tripping mechanism as a GFCI or ground fault but instead of tripping at 5mA they trip at 30mA.

For this reason Safe and Sound Electric recommends GE panels.

  1. What is AFCI Protection? AFCI protection guards against damage or fires that can result from arcing and sparking circuits. Arc faults can occur from conditions that include deteriorated wires, poor connections and breaches in wire insulation. With more than 47,000 home fires claiming more than 455 lives and injuring 1,500 victims and $1.5 billion in property damage from 2007 – 2011* annually, the added safety provided by AFCI protection is an important step forward in reducing this risk. * Reference sourced from NFPA.org
  2. What is an AFCI with shared neutral? An AFCI with shared neutral consists of two one-pole GE circuit breakers that are tied together with a handle tie, forming a simple, two-pole shared neutral solution.
  3. What makes the neutral “shared”? In a typical application, a single #14/3 or #12/3 wire is run to a location that is close to the utilization area. The neutral wire is then split, one goes with the red wire and one goes with the black wire. Ordinarily you would not be able to have just one neutral coming back to a typical AFCI breaker. However, GE’s AFCIs have the ability to fully protect against arc faults without monitoring the circuit neutrals. This allows you to wire a multi-wire or a shared neutral the same way you would with a thermal magnetic breaker.
  4. Can the AFCI with shared neutral be used for retrofit installations? Yes, for retrofit installation, GE AFCIs can be substituted for the existing thermal magnetic breakers without the need to sort out existing shared or mixed neutrals. For existing multi-wire or shared neutral applications, follow the same instructions as for new installations. For existing mixed neutral situations, the breaker will not nuisance trip because it is not monitoring the neutral. In addition, the existing neutrals do not need to be sorted and can be left on the neutral bar.
  5. How does this differ from other AFCIs that are on the market today? Most AFCIs require the neutral to come back to the circuit breaker to prevent the breaker from tripping. In retrofit installations where you would likely be replacing thermal magnetic circuit breakers, there is a high probability that there are neutral wires tied together throughout the house. This creates a situation where you would need to search out all of these wire runs, which can be a cumbersome, time-intensive process. GE’s AFCI with shared neutral eliminates the need to search these out because it can tolerate mixed neutral situations that are often encountered when replacing thermal magnetic circuit breakers. Information provided is subject to change without notice. Please verify all details with GE. All values are design or typical values when measured under laboratory conditions, and GE makes no warranty or guarantee, express or implied, that such performance will be obtained under end-use conditions.
  6. How is the GE AFCI with shared neutral easier to install than other AFCI circuit breakers? With the GE AFCI, there is no need to hunt down mixed neutral runs. You just need to swap out the thermal magnetic breaker and wiring with the GE AFCI.
  7. Why can the GE AFCI breakers function with shared and mixed neutrals and others can’t? GE’s Patented Discrete Wavelet Transform Algorithm allows for accurate response to abnormalities in a circuit’s waveform caused by arcing conditions, without the need for a clean neutral return path. Unlike other brands, the neutral load lug provided on the GE AFCI breaker is there simply for your wiring convenience, and is purely optional. For new construction you have the option of returning the neutral wire to the breaker or simply to the neutral bar (as space allows). For retrofits it’s a true time-saver. You don’t have to track down the exact neutral wire that may be split or shared upstream– you can simply pull and replace.
  8. What if it’s easier to run the neutral wire back to the breaker instead of a ground bar? The GE AFCI breakers include lugs to support this wiring option as well. Every installation is different; the GE AFCI breakers provide the flexibility to wire it either way to suit the installation.
  9. Are there cost saving opportunities if I use a GE AFCI with shared and mixed neutral capability? There are potential savings in both time and materials costs. For new construction, the installer can take advantage of running one 3-wire conductor versus two 2-wire conductors, eliminating labor and material costs. For retrofit situations, GE’s AFCIs eliminate the need to hunt down mixed neutrals hidden in the dwelling, substantially reducing labor costs.
  10. Why is the GE AFCI only available in a one-pole version? The design of the GE AFCI eliminates the need to stock and inventory multiple pole versions. The NEC only requires arc fault protection on single pole 120 V circuits in dwellings. Therefore a traditional two and three pole offering is not required unless an installer wants to use shared neutrals. Installing a handle tie on the GE AFCI negates the need for anything more than a one-pole offering. With the GE AFCI you can use two one-poles (or even three one-poles with a handle tie in a 120/208V shared neutral application) and cover all applications. Plus, it is generally more economical than most factory two-pole AFCI options.
  11. Does the GE AFCI with shared and mixed neutral capability fit into existing panels? The GE AFCI circuit breakers will fit into existing GE panels. They are generally not listed for use in competitors’ panels and may void the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) rating if used in a non-GE panel. However, if it is the time to upgrade and change out the circuit breakers for AFCI circuit breakers, it is recommended that you also change out the panel. If you do install a new GE panel and AFCI circuit breakers, it will be a real time-saver compared with having to sort out the existing wiring.
  12. What approvals do the GE AFCI circuit breakers carry? The AFCI circuit breakers have UL and cUL approval.
  13. For residential installations, where should AFCIs be used? National Electrical Code (NEC) 2014 requires AFCI circuit protection in all dwelling areas of the home, which would typically include the kitchen, family room, dining room, bedrooms, sunrooms, hallways, closets, recreation rooms and other similar areas throughout a residence. For more information on NEC 2014 visit www.electricalcodecoalition.org.
  14. Do Dual Function Circuit Interrupter (DFCI) circuit breakers offer the same shared neutral advantage? Unfortunately, due to the added ground fault protection DFCIs provide, they do require a clean neutral return path to the circuit breaker. However for retrofits, if you are replacing a traditional ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) circuit breaker with a DFCI, the existing wiring would not be utilizing shared neutrals because of the GFCI protection, so the existing wiring can be exchanged for the new circuit breaker. In addition, the dual function protection can be achieved by using a standard AFCI and a GFCI receptacle at the first receptacle on the load end. This would almost eliminate the potential for mixed neutrals. If the circuit is using a ground fault receptacle that is functioning properly with additional downstream outlets, there will not be any mixed neutrals beyond the first receptacle.
  15. Where can I find more information about GE AFCI circuit breakers? www.geindustrial.com/residential or contact your local GE account manager.

Source: Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) with Shared Neutral

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Why Aren’t My Outlets Working?

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If your outlet is not working, there is a chance that you’ll need a pro to fix it, but some troubleshooting would come in handy.  You’ve already popped your popcorn for movie night, but when you turn on the TV …. nothing. But don’t panic—it’s not your TV that’s dead; it’s the outlet.

Outlet malfunctioning is a common problem homeowners face. In some cases, it’s not a bad idea to take a few troubleshooting steps to see if you can solve the problem yourself before calling Safe and Sound Electric. Here’s a guide to some of the most common reasons for a dead electrical outlet.

Safety warning: You have to take safety precautions when dealing with electricity. Unplug all devices and appliances from dead outlets. It’s also a good idea not to come near an electric plug or outlet without switching off the breaker from the main electric panel.

Why Does My Electrical Outlet Spark?

Some outlet sparks are normal, but short circuits, water exposure, and age can all cause dangerous sparks

Why Is My Electrical Outlet Not Working?

If you found yourself stuck with an electrical outlet that doesn’t work, it’s not always because of a major electrical problem. Here are some reasons you might be having trouble and troubleshooting tips to try before calling Safe and Sound Electric.

Switched Plugs

Sometimes outlets are controlled by wall switches, so you can turn on your electronics with a simple flip. So before you stress yourself out about your outlet not working, check to see that the switch is actually on first. It sounds like a silly thing to overlook, but (let’s be real) we’ve all been there.

A Problem With the Device Not the Outlet

Sometimes you think the outlet is dead, but the problem is actually with the device or appliance you’re trying to use. To make sure that’s not the issue, plug a different device into the same outlet. If it works, then it’s a problem with the device.

If you’re still not seeing results, check other outlets in the same room. Are they all dead? Now it’s time to call Safe and Sound Electric.

Tripped Breaker

If you tend to plug too many things into the same circuit, it can get overloaded when drawing more electricity than the circuit can handle, leading the circuit breaker to trip.

If your outlet doesn’t work, check the home breaker panel. If a breaker is tripped—the switch is in the middle, between ON and OFF—reset the breaker by flipping it to OFF and then back to ON.

If this doesn’t solve the problem and the breaker reverts back to the tripped position, this could be a sign you have a potentially dangerous situation, and you need to call Safe and Sound Electric right away.

Tripped GFCI Outlet

Many new buildings require GFCI outlets (ground-fault circuit interrupters) near sinks or damp areas. Instead of a flipped circuit breaker, this device shuts itself off (and the other outlets on the same circuit) when it detects excess heat.

When this happens, press the reset button on the outlet. If it doesn’t reset, you need to contact Safe and Sound Electric.

Faulty Outlet

Although it isn’t common, an outlet can burn out and quit functioning. If the outlet is faulty, you might want to consider having Safe and Sound Electric replace it.

Improper Installation

In some cases, the outlet doesn’t work because of an improper installation or loose connection, such as the following situations:

  • Backstabbing: Instead of using screws to connect wires to outlets, the wire is pushed into a connector inside the device. This creates a loose connection and causes the wires to burn out.
  • Incorrect use of wire nuts: Wire nuts keep all wires covered and tied together. But not using wire nuts properly will cause an outlet to stop functioning properly.
  • Loose connections: If any of the wires have come loose, they need reattaching—this problem is more common with old wiring.
    Contact Safe and Sound Electric to have your wires properly connected.

If you don’t know much about electricity, we recommend avoiding DIYing to avoid any dangerous mistakes. Electricians are trained to work with safety codes. Besides, they have special equipment and testers to help them locate and diagnose electrical issues that are difficult to pinpoint.

Is a Dead Outlet Dangerous?

Home electrical issues can be deadly serious, even causing house fires. This is why you should always take any electrical issue seriously.

If your electrical outlet is not working and signs of a burning smell, discolored outlet, or outlet spark appear, you need to talk to Safe and Sound Electric as soon as possible.

Source: Reasons Why Your Electrical Outlet Isn’t Working and What You Should Do

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National Electrical Code Changes in 2020

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The 2020 National Electric Code includes requirement updates in four significant areas: surge protection, GFCI protection, firemen’s disconnect and solar power. Be familiar with the official NEC codes in your state.

NEC 2020 includes four major updates to the existing 2017 electrical code:

  • GFCI protection is now required for 125–250V receptacles within 6 feet of sinks.
  • Surge protection is now required for lines feeding dwelling units.
  • Emergency disconnects are now required for all one- and two-family dwelling units.
  • Solar panels (California directive) are now required to have outdoor emergency disconnect.

NEC 2020 adoption is underway in:

  • Connecticut
  • Idaho
  • Iowa
  • Maine
  • Nebraska
  • New Hampshire
  • New Mexico
  • North Carolina
  • Ohio
  • Oregon
  • Rhode Island
  • Utah
  • Vermont

NEC 2020 Is in Effect in:

  • Colorado
  • Georgia
  • Massachusetts
  • Minnesota
  • North Dakota
  • South Dakota
  • Texas
  • Washington
  • Wyoming

GFCI (DWELLINGS)

GFCI protection is required for all 125–250V receptacles within 6 feet of sinks. Notable spaces include:

  • Laundry areas
  • Kitchens
  • Unfinished basements
  • Finished basements
  • Outdoor outlets 150V to ground or less and up to 50amps

This applies to:

  • Ranges within 6 feet of sinks
  • Electric dryers
  • Dishwashers
  • Sump pumps
  • Pool motors
  • Equipment that requires service, including HVAC and refrigeration units

GFCI protection is also required in non-dwellings. Notable spaces include:

  • Indoor damp and wet locations
  • Permanent fixtures for cooking
  • Permanent provisions for food preparation
  • Accessory buildings

This applies to:

  • Dishwashers
  • Drinking fountains
  • Sump pumps
  • Pool motors
  • Equipment that requires service, including HVAC and refrigeration units

Emergency Disconnects

  • Required for all single- and two-family dwellings
  • Must function from outside dwellings
  • Must be readily accessible
  • Applies to generators and energy storage systems (ESS)
  • Generators must be marked with one of the following:

EMERGENCY DISCONNECT, SERVICE DISCONNECT

EMERGENCY DISCONNECT, METER DISCONNECT, NOT SERVICE EQUIPMENT

EMERGENCY DISCONNECT, NOT SERVICE EQUIPMENT

Surge Protection

  • New article (242) includes service lines to dwelling units
  • Must be part of service equipment or adjacent
  • May be located at each level of downstream distribution

Now applies to:

  • Line side and load side services
  • Replacements and service upgrades

Solar (California)

  • Solar panels on new construction*
  • Outdoor disconnect required for all energy storage units

*The State of California requires solar photovoltaic systems for newly constructed healthcare facilities starting January 1, 2020.

NEC 2020 includes several new articles. Surge protection article 242 is one among four.Article 242 Overvoltage Protection combines articles 280 and 285 and addresses surge protective requirements, devices and arresters.Article 337 Type P Cable addresses 600V Type P cables used in industrial and hazardous areas and specifications.

Article 311 MV Conductors & Cable expands on deleted article 328 and addresses medium voltage conductors and cables, their use and specifications.

Article 800 General Requirements for Communications Systems consolidates the previous contents of 2017 NEC chapter 8 into one articles and addresses requirements for communication circuits, including television and radio distribution antennae and network powered broadband systems.

Removed Articles

NEC 2020 removes several articles present in NEC 2017 to improve clarity and limit redundancies. These are:

  • Article 280 SPDs over 1,000V
  • Article 285 SPDs 1,000V or less
  • Article 328 MV Cable Type MV
  • Article 553 Floating Buildings

The National Fire Protection Agency publishes official updates to the National Electrical Code every three years. These updates have run uninterrupted since 1897, when the code was introduced. 2020 NEC is the result of more than 5,000 public inputs and comments, 18 panels, the annual NFPA meeting and more than 2,000 revisions.

California Energy Commission, “2019 Building Energy Efficiency Standards.” 2018.

National Fire Protection Association, “Power Aid: GFCI Protection, Emergency Power Disconnects, and much more.” 2019.

National Fire Protection Association, “NEC Enforcement.” 2019.

Reproduced from NFPA’s website, © NFPA 2020.

Source National Electrical Code Changes in 2020

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Debunking Six AFCI Myths

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By William Atkinson Published In May 2017
An arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) is an advanced circuit breaker that, as a way to reduce electrical fire threats, breaks the circuit when it detects a dangerous electric arc in the circuit that it protects.

An AFCI is able to selectively distinguish between a harmless arc that is incidental to the normal operation of switches and plugs, versus a potentially dangerous arc that can occur, such as in a lamp cord with a broken conductor. An AFCI is designed to detect a wide range of arcing electrical faults that help reduce the electrical system from being an ignition source of a fire.

Despite the fact that AFCIs were introduced and written into electrical codes in the late 1990s (more on this later), several myths still surround AFCIs—myths often believed by homeowners, state legislators, building commissions, and even some electricians.

MYTH 1: AFCIs are not important when it comes to saving lives

“AFCIs are very important safety devices that have been proven time and again,” said Ashley Bryant, senior product manager for Siemens. In fact, according to Bryant, www.afcisafety.org includes several success stories on how these breakers have found some very dangerous situations and saved people and property.

Arc faults are one of the leading causes of residential electrical fires. Through the 1990s, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), an average of over 40,000 fires a year were attributed to home electrical wiring, resulting in over 350 deaths and over 1,400 injuries. The CPSC also reported that over 50 percent of these fires could have been prevented with the use of AFCIs.

“The www.afcsafety.org website also includes a UL report noting that the average time to get out of a house in the event of a fire was 17 minutes,” she said. “These days, though, because of homes being larger, having more open floor plans and fewer drywall barriers, and furniture that catches fire easier, that is now down to three minutes.”

In addition, the CPSC reports that electrical fires due to arcing tend to occur behind walls, making them more dangerous. That is, these fires can spread undetected more quickly, they can cause more damage than other fires, and they end up being twice as deadly as fires not occurring behind walls, since homeowners tend not be aware of the fires behind walls until it may be too late to escape.

MYTH 2: AFCI manufacturers are driving expanded code requirements for the installation of AFCI

“I find this myth common when I am talking with legislators, but it is important that the electrical industry understand the reality as well when they are talking with their state senators and building commissions,” said Alan Manche, vice president, external affairs, for Schneider Electric.

[SB]The drive for the expanding code requirements are coming from third-party research.

“The Consumer Product Safety Commission and studies conducted by UL with regard to thousands of fires occurring in homes in late 1980s and early 1990s drove the need to address the causes of these fires,” Manche said. “Arc fault protection became the solution that was recognized by the CPSC, UL, and others.”

MYTH 3: AFCIs are only required by codes in a small number of rooms in residential homes

“The National Electrical Code has been expanding the reach of AFCIs beyond residential homes,” said Jim Phillips, P.E. president of Brainfiller.com, and a contributing editor to ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR magazine.

The first National Electrical Code (NEC) requirement for AFCIs was released in 1999, requiring them to be installed to protect the circuits feeding bedrooms in new homes. In 2008, and again in 2014, the NEC was expanded to require AFCIs to be installed on circuits to more and more rooms in homes, now covering virtually all rooms—bedrooms, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, sunrooms, kitchens, dens, home offices, hallways, recreation rooms, laundry rooms, and even closets.

In addition, in 2014, the NEC also began requiring the use of AFCIs in college dormitories. It has also expanded requirements to include hotel/motel rooms that offer permanent provisions for cooking.

MYTH 4: An AFCI only protects what is plugged into the specific defective outlet that triggers the electric arc

“An AFCI actually protects the entire circuit,” said Rich Korthauer, vice president, final distribution business, for Schneider Electric. “This includes the electrical panel; the downstream wires that run through the walls; the outlets; the switches; all of the connections to those wires, outlets and switches; and anything that is plugged into any of those outlets and connected to switches on that circuit.

MYTH 5: A standard circuit breaker will provide just as much protection as an AFCI


Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short circuits. They do not protect against arcing conditions that produce erratic and often reduced current.

“A standard circuit breaker protects the insulation on a wire from an overload,” Korthauer said. “It is not intended to identify bad arcs on circuits in the home. Of course, if you have a dead short, a standard circuit breaker is designed to trip and interrupt that condition.”

MYTH 6: Most AFCI “trips” are the result of “nuisance tripping”


“I hear this myth a lot,” Siemens’ Bryant said. “People believe that certain arc fault breakers are defective because they frequently trip. People need to think of these not as ‘nuisance tripping,’ but rather as ‘safety alerts.’ The majority of the time, these breakers trip because they are supposed to. They are tripping due to some type of arcing event on the circuit.”

This can especially be true with “stab” receptacles, where wires are spring-loaded into the backs of the receptacles, instead of wiring around screws, which provide firm connections. In many instances, according to Bryant, when homeowners jam plugs into spring-loaded receptacles or pull them out roughly, it jostles the receptacles, allowing the wires to come loose, which will cause the arc fault breakers to trip.

“Again, this is not ‘nuisance tripping,” she said. “It is a ‘safety alert.’”

Debunking Six AFCI Myths | Electrical Contractor Magazine (ecmag.com)

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Electromagnetic Fields

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All of us depend on electricity to meet basic needs such as heating, cooling and lighting our homes. We also depend on electricity to meet the transportation, communication, commercial, recreational, industrial and health care requirements of our society. Wherever we make use of electricity, power frequency electric and/or magnetic fields (EMF) are present.

EMF is measured in milligauss (mG). Most research on the potential health effects of EMF has focused on magnetic fields.

Electric fields

Electric fields are created around appliances and wires wherever a voltage exists. You can think of electric voltage as the pressure of water in a garden hose – the more voltage, the higher the electric field strength. Electric fields are present when an electrical appliance is plugged in even when turned off. Electric fields diminish rapidly with distance from the source and can be shielded by objects such as trees or the walls of a building.

Magnetic fields

Magnetic fields are created whenever there is a flow of electric current. This can be thought of as the flow of water in a garden hose. As the amount of current flowing increases, so does the magnetic field. Magentic fields are only present when there is a flow of electricity, such as when an electrical appliance is operating. Magenetic fields diminish rapidly with distance from the source, but are not shielded by objects such as trees or buildings. The level of magnetic fields from electrical appliances in homes can be as high as or higher than the magnetic fields people may experience under power lines. Magnetic field strength from power lines depend on many factors, including the design of the line, the amount of current the line carries, and the distance from the line.

Research on EMF – How it affects you

You may have questions about whether there are adverse health effects from exposure to power frequency EMF. For over 40 years, there have been many scientific studies conducted on power frequency EMF. Extensive reviews and research conducted by leading public health agencies – such as the World Health Organization (WHO) and the U.S. National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences (one of the U.S. National Institutes of Health) – have not established that exposure to power frequency EMF causes adverse health effects in humans or animals. In the view of WHO, “Based on a recent in-depth review of the scientific literature, the WHO concluded that current evidence does not confirm the existence of any health consequences from exposure to low level electromagnetic fields.”

Two principal types of studiest have been conducted on power frequency EMF: laboratory studies and epidemiology studies.

Laboratory studies

Laboratory studies involve exposing cells, tissues and animals to EMF under controlled conditions in the laboratory. Many laboratory studies have examined whether cells exposed to EMF show significant permanent damage to the structure of DNA or chromosomes that could lead to the development of cancer. Other studies have examined whether adverse health effects are found in animals exposed to power frequency EMF for their entire lives. The reviews conducted by leading public health agencies, such as WHO and NIEHS have found that the laboratory studies do not show that exposure to power frequency EMF causes adverse effects in cells or animals.

Epidemiology studies

Epidemiology studies look for statistical associations between the incidence of disease and specific conditions or exposures. Some epidemiology studies have reported a weak statistical association between estimates of EMF exposures and some cancers, while other epidemiology studies have not found such an association. Leading public health agencies, such as WHO and NIEHS have found that, at most, these epidemiology studies can be interpreted as showing a “possible” but inconclusive relationship between EMF and childhood leukemia, and that the relationship is weak and lacks support from the laboratory research. As noted by WHO, “Despite extensive research, to date there is no evidence to conclude that exposure to low level electromagnetic fields is harmful to human health.”

Exposure limits

Neither the U.S. government nor the state of Washington has established exposure standards for public exposure to power frequency EMF. Two international organizations, the International Commission on Non-Ionizing Radiation Protection (ICNIRP) and the Institute of Electrical and Electronic Engineers (IEEE), have developed exposure guidelines that have been endorsed by the World Health Organization (WHO).

Established EMF exposure limits
International Commission on Non-Ionizing Radiation Protection2,000 mG1
Institute of Electrical and Electronic Engineers9,040 mG
1In November 2010, ICNIRP updated its guidelines. These guidelines replace the prior exposure guidelines ICNIRP issued in 1998. Exposure limits under the new guidelines more than doubled: from 833 mG to 2,000 mG. See “ICNIRP Statement – Guidelines for Limiting Exposure to Time-Varying Electric and Magnetic Fields (1 Hz to 100 kHz)” and “Fact Sheet on the Guidelines for Limiting Exposure to Time-Varying Electric and Magnetic Fields (1 Hz to 100 kHz)” at www.icnirp.org.

Everyone’s Safety is our Priority

If you or someone you love has concerns about EMF, noisy electrical equipment, or flickering lights Contact an “Electrician Near Me” Safe and Sound Electric

Source PSE | Puget Sound Energy | Electric Current in Electromagnetic Fields